When it comes to cosmetics, there aren't many substances that can help your skin. However, when it comes to vitamin C, no one can deny its benefits. It is one of the great but difficult substances to use in skin care.
What is the function of vitamin C ?
This article identifies four major benefits of vitamin C based on several scientific articles and publications.
- First and foremost, it is an excellent antioxidant. Simply stated, it slows the aging process by shielding the skin from the harmful effects of free radicals (oxygen compounds).
- Second, it boosts collagen synthesis by functioning as a support factor for the enzymes that govern quality on the one hand, and being engaged in the development of the substance responsible for collagen quantity on the other.
- Third, it combats pigmentation, which evens out skin tone and brightens acne-prone skin.
- Fourth, there is evidence that vitamin C may aid dry skin by "forcing" the skin to make more epidermal fat, which is essential for the skin's protective barrier.
Vitamin C is also beneficial in combating photoaging and improving the skin's defensive systems. It may also enhance the effectiveness of vitamin E included in cosmetics. And it's a gentle acid that exfoliates the skin.
Many physicians believe that vitamin C is beneficial for couperose and rosacea. I haven't seen any particular proof of its effects, but the theory is that vitamin C strengthens arterial walls and lessens general skin irritation (and rosacea is an inflammatory condition).
There is also evidence that vitamin C, which has an anti-inflammatory impact, may aid with acne.
Who should take vitamin C supplements ?
Basically, vitamin C can be used by anyone whose skin reacts well to it.
In general, everyone concerned with anti-aging should consume vitamin C. For example, if you are above the age of 30, you can normally do this. Because vitamin C does not function as well as retinol, it is important to begin taking it as soon as possible.
If you have noticeable indications of aging, you will also need vitamin C. You can even mix it with retinol for even better effects.
Also, if you suffer from pigmentation or post-acne at any age, vitamin C can be very helpful.
What are the common forms of vitamin C in cosmetics ?
In terms of the established effectiveness of vitamin C formulas in cosmetics, ascorbic acid is the most intriguing. It is also known as L-ascorbic acid. What makes this formula special is that all of the above qualities of vitamin C are based on research done on this specific type.
Most serums that contain this vitamin are similar to water. It is often encapsulated (i.e., enclosed in tiny capsules indistinguishable to the naked eye) in wax, phospholipids and a few other components, and the result no longer looks like water.
The second solution is to use serums that do not contain water at all. These products are often formulated with a high concentration of silicones. Personally, I do not recommend silicone-based products and I know many people who do not like them. These pastes are often unpleasant, powdery, take a long time to absorb and can hurt the skin, but they last much longer than those that contain ascorbic acid dissolved in water.
These two formulations are not the only examples of vitamin C in cosmetics. In fact, ascorbic acid (commonly known as vitamin C) is the chemical that acts directly on the skin cells, while all other forms must first be converted to ascorbic acid in the skin before they can perform their functions. In other words, they are less effective but more stable, have a milder action, and are easier to transform into a pleasant product. The most common types are as follows:
Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G):
It is the water-soluble variety of vitamin C. It is probably the form that has been the subject of the most research, after ascorbic acid. However, it is only known that it is stable and penetrates the skin. After penetration, it is converted to ascorbic acid. However, it is not known exactly how much is finally converted. Anyways, if you want to start using vitamin C without starting with ascorbic acid, this is certainly one of the best forms to look for. Unlike the next form, products that use it are usually not too expensive.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA):
It is the fat-soluble variety of vitamin C. Few remedies contain it, but it is thought to be nearly as effective, if not more so, than ascorbic acid. It is thought to be more effective in part because it is fat-soluble, and fat-soluble chemicals penetrate the skin more effectively than water-soluble ones. This is due to the protective barrier of the skin, which prevents water from passing through. According to the research, this substance penetrates the skin and is transformed into ascorbic acid. Moreover, even at much lower concentrations, it penetrates three times better than ascorbic acid. A trial on half the face used a product containing 10% ascorbic acid and 7% THDA, and the results were very satisfactory. But you can't really draw any conclusions about THDA. In this case, I used a cream containing 30% THDA in conjunction with a retinol serum, and the results were also good, but it is impossible to make a conclusive comment about the effectiveness of THDA.
I personally prefer this format (or at least products with this format). In my opinion, it's a pretty good form for people with dry skin and those who like expensive products. Since this form is a bit expensive, you won't find it in cheap serums.
Ascorbyl phosphate of sodium (SAP):
A popular water-soluble type of vitamin C. It has anti-acne qualities in addition to those listed above. It is not a cure-all, but it works very well when combined with traditional anti-acne medications. If you have problem skin and are looking for vitamin C, it makes sense to look for products with this specific composition. It works well at low concentrations (even 1%).
Ascorbyl phosphate of magnesium (MAP):
This is another popular fat-soluble version. It's also not well documented. And I have found research that indicates it may be effective for acne, but only as an adjunct to a general treatment, not alone. However, since the research was conducted in vitro (outside the human body and in a controlled environment), I can't relate to the results. However, you can try it.
Ascorbic acid, 3-O-Ethyl:
A very promising but little studied form. According to the manufacturer, this version contains about 85% ascorbic acid, while the other forms contain 50–60%. Therefore, the skin should convert more ascorbic acid than the other types. There is also an article from a very reputable cosmetic pharmacy journal. But I haven't found any publications on the actual impacts. Therefore, I can't really comment on it, although it sounds quite promising.
Ascorbic acid (retinyl ascorbate):
This is an intriguing form. It consists of retinol and ascorbic acid. It is said to contain both qualities, although no research has been conducted.
Ascorbyl tetrisopalmitate.
This is a relatively popular type that is often recommended for very sensitive skin. It is claimed to penetrate the skin immediately. It has been shown to penetrate the skin and cells, but only at fairly high doses.
I won't go into detail about the other types, as I haven't come across any products that use them as a main component. But I think you get the idea of finding anything related to vitamin C in the recipe.
As you might guess, vitamin C is a very useful component for the skin, and it requires a lot of attention. This is just a taste of the subject. I'm still digging into the research and will surely share more interesting articles about this vitamin.