Wrinkles may be caused by dryness or by the degradation of fibroblasts in the dermis. Small wrinkles, commonly called "baby wrinkles" or "expression lines", are mainly caused by dryness and are due to the dryness of the stratum corneum, which disappears after a bath. Wrinkles that do not disappear even after moisturizing are due to the deterioration of fibroblasts in the dermis, which is even deeper than the epidermis.The epidermis protects the skin from external stimuli while keeping it nourished, fresh and radiant. Below the epidermis, the dermis maintains the skin's roundness and elasticity.
The dermis is located under the epidermis and constitutes the base of the skin. The dermis is lined with collagen fibers, which are held together by elastin fibers to maintain elasticity. Both collagen and elastin are produced by fibroblasts in the dermis. Their main role is to maintain the roundness and elasticity of the skin. Capillaries in the dermis supply nutrients and oxygen to all parts of the skin. For a clearer illustration, we can say that collagen is to a bed what springs are to a mattress, elastin is the part that holds the springs together, and hyaluronic acid is the sponge part.
Collagen is a fiber composed of resistant proteins and is a major component of the dermis, representing about 70% of the dermis, excluding water. Wrinkles and sagging are caused by the loss of skin elasticity due to the reduction or degeneration of this collagen. Elastin is a rubbery, elastic fiber that binds to collagen and holds it in place so that it does not become unbalanced. It represents about 5% of the dermis, excluding water, and declines with age, causing wrinkles and sagging. Hyaluronic acid jelly fills the gaps in the collagen and elastin network. Its gelatinous consistency brings elasticity and stability to the structure of the dermis. This hyaluronic acid is commonly used as a moisturizing ingredient because of its high water retention capacity.
As the collagen in the dermis diminishes and loses further elasticity, the skin becomes paper thin and even more rigid. Wrinkles then appear in the regions that are folded by the facial expression. The same principle applies to sagging: the fibers that hold the dermis in place are reduced and the overall support structure collapses, causing the entire skin layer to sag.
When the skin around the eyes loses its elasticity and can no longer support the fat around the eyeballs, the skin and subcutaneous tissues that support the thick fat of the cheeks sag down to the tear trough, the cheeks sag and wrinkles form on both sides of the mouth. When the skin of the facial line sags, it cannot support the thick fat of the chin, resulting in a double chin. Similarly, marionette lines and gorgon lines are also caused by sagging. For both wrinkled and sagging skin, it is important to ensure that the collagen in the skin is increased. Collagen molecules are large, so even if they are applied directly to the skin, they do not penetrate and reach the skin deeply.
Vitamin C, an essential ingredient for collagen production, is therefore necessary, but vitamin C, being unstable and fragile as it is, quickly loses its effect even when added to cosmetics. Vitamin C derivatives are stabilized by attaching other molecules to them, which makes them 100 times more effective. However, cosmetics containing vitamin C derivatives are likely to cause tingling and irritation when used by people with sensitive skin, so cosmetics containing niacin should be used in these cases. Niacin is vitamin B2, which increases collagen and gives elasticity to the skin. It can also be used to treat rough skin, acne, and dullness. However, due to its ability to suppress sebum production, there are concerns that it can cause dry skin, and it is best not to use it on dry, sensitive or inflammatory skin.
Although slightly more expensive, human stem cell culture fluid works on both the basal layer of the epidermis and the fibroblasts of the dermis to reactivate skin stem cells, thereby improving and preventing wrinkles. It reaches the dermis, activates fibroblasts and generates beautiful skin components such as collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. In other words, the skin stem cells are not fed from the outside but are energized from the inside and reproduce the components that have diminished due to aging or UV rays.
When the condition of the dermis, the foundation of the skin, improves, the metabolism of the epidermis also improves, skin cells are energized, barrier function is improved, and hydration is increased, resulting in a marked improvement and prevention of wrinkles and sagging skin. Products that minimize the use of synthetic ingredients are non-irritating and more effective if they contain a high concentration of human stem cells. It is the best treatment for wrinkles and sagging skin that do not disappear even after moisturizing.